Q: What do you breed for in your program?
A: I breed for the improvement of the Holland Lop breed. This means I breed in accordance with the Holland Lop breed standard outlined in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. The SOP describes in great detail what the ideal Holland Lop should look like in terms of correct, healthy conformation and defining breed characteristics. I also breed for strong, healthy animals. Health, vigor, and condition are all heritable characteristics, so I select for these traits in my animals. I additionally breed for a correct Holland Lop temperament, which should be calm, friendly, affectionate, and easy to handle.
Q: Does your pricing vary depending on color and sex?
A: No. Color and sex are not the way anyone should be selecting their new pet. It's okay to have a preference, but by selecting for superficial characteristics, it's very easy to neglect the important ones such as temperament and energy level. I do not wish for any of my buyers to select their new rabbit based on something as unimportant as what color they are. If color is a deal-breaker, that's fine, but be prepared to wait a bit longer for the right rabbit to come along with both the temperament and the color you desire.
Q: Do rabbits like to be held?
A: It depends on the rabbit, as temperament is largely hereditary. I will personally only breed rabbits with what I consider to be good temperaments: calm, friendly, and easy to handle. However, the most important factor is how often and how correctly a rabbit is handled. It's important to learn how to handle your rabbit correctly so that it doesn't learn bad behaviors. If you aren't sure how to handle your rabbit, go on YouTube or ideally have an experienced breeder help you.
Another thing to consider is that rabbits that are allowed to "free-roam" tend to be somewhat feral in temperament. On the other hand, rabbits that are housed in appropriately sized cages and given plenty of handling tend to actively seek attention.
Q: Why haven't I received an email back?
A: I do have a fairly high volume of inquiries. This means I am fortunate enough to be able to be very selective on where each of my rabbits goes. I do my best to match up each person with the right rabbit for what they are looking for in terms of temperament and compatibility, so if I don't have what you are looking for, I might not always have the time to respond. If I haven't responded within a week, feel free to shoot me another email. I try to respond to as many inquiries as I can, but please keep in mind that my rabbits are a hobby, not a job.
Q: Are bucks or does better pets?
A: It completely depends on the rabbit in question. Each rabbit is an individual, with their own personality and quirks. I have found in my breeding program that the temperament is not really dependent on the sex of the rabbit. That said, it's important to keep in mind that some bucks do spray.
Q: Should my rabbit be free-roam or in a cage?
A: It depends what you are looking for in a rabbit. I advise housing in an appropriately sized cage for the rabbit's safety, and allowing supervised time in a playpen when possible. I do advise against free roaming - because rabbits lack the impulse control of a dog or cat, they can injure themselves more easily or chew/ingest hazardous material. It can make them more skittish and averse to handling.
Q: Should I get my rabbit a companion?
A: Rabbits are naturally territorial creatures, so I advise against it. They are not social animals like horses, dogs, or guinea pigs, whose wild ancestors lived in social groups. Interestingly, current academic research is showing that while rabbits do benefit from being able to see and smell other rabbits nearby, they display higher blood cortisol levels when cohabitated with other rabbits.
Q: Should I spay/neuter my rabbit?
A: I recommend against spaying/neutering rabbits unless there is a medical necessity. I have not personally observed any real change or improvement in health or temperament in my past spayed/neutered rabbits compared to when they were intact. Rabbits do also have a very high mortality rate both during and post-op as they are very sensitive to anesthesia. As such, I am on the more cautious side with surgeries with my rabbits. With that being said, spaying/neutering is a choice best made by the owner and their vet.
Q: Are there any vaccinations my rabbit should get?
A: I recommend that all rabbits in the US be vaccinated for RHDV2 annually. This virus is fatal to rabbits and is very infectious. Contact your vet in order to procure more information about the vaccination and the virus.
Q: What is RHDV2?
A: Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease type 2 is a really nasty virus that only affects rabbits, hares, and pikas. It was first discovered in China in 1984, made its way to Europe about 10 years ago, and then spread to the United States in 2020.
RHD is almost always fatal, and is highly infectious. Typically rabbits die within a couple of days of infection. RHD can survive for up to 4 months in the environment and can endure extremely hot and cold temperatures. It can be spread by other rabbits, flies, shoes, equipment, rodents, dogs, cats, bird droppings, clothes, etc..
Thankfully, as of late 2021, there is a US manufactured RHD vaccination that is starting to become available to vets across the country. Each state has to individually approve the vaccine before it can be used there. Talk to your vet for more information.
Q: Can I breed my pet rabbit?
A: No. When you buy a pet rabbit, it is being sold with the requirement that it is going to be used solely for the purpose of being a pet. Pets are sold at a reduced price compared to show quality animals. This is because despite the fact that they are cute and sweet, they are not of high enough quality to improve the next generation of their breed.
If you are seriously interested in ethically raising quality rabbits, join ARBA and your breed's national club, find a mentor, learn the breed standard, and invest in high quality show or brood rabbits that are excellent examples of their breed. The world does not need more badly bred animals, so if you really want to breed, go about it the responsible way!
Q: Is it true that intact rabbits are aggressive?
A: Aggression is typically caused by one of two things: bad genetics or infrequent/incorrect handling. It is not linked to whether or not the rabbit is fixed. If the rabbit has genetic aggression, then no amount of handling will rectify it.
All of my rabbits are intact, and there is not a single rabbit in my herd with aggression issues. I have owned plenty of spayed and neutered rabbits in the past though, and did not see any positive impact on their temperament.
Q: How often should I take my rabbit to the vet?
A: I recommend bringing your rabbit to the vet annually for their RHDV2 vaccination. Beyond that, I generally only bring my rabbits to the vet if I feel there's something wrong. It's a fine balance to make sure your rabbit is receiving appropriate medical attention, but also not changing their environment frequently/unnecessarily given how sensitive they are to change. Regardless, I suggest doing your research on common diseases so that you are aware of the symptoms and can make an informed decision.
Q: Which breeds make the best pets? Are there differences in personalities between different breeds?
A: Yes, there is quite a bit of difference. In general, the best options for pets are the more laidback breeds. Polish, Himalayans, Mini Rex, Holland Lops, and French Lops are some great options for pet owners, as they tend to be social and easy to handle. For most pet homes, I advise against meat breeds or the more high-strung full-arch breeds. That said, these are generalizations, and each rabbit is different. I always recommend that new rabbit owners visit ARBA sanctioned shows or other rabbit events to meet the breeds in person and decide if they are a good fit before purchasing one.
Q: What are the most common health concerns in rabbits?
A: Digestive issues and heat related issues. The risk of both can be significantly reduced with proper care. Feeding a fairly bland and extremely consistent diet helps reduce the risk of gastrointestinal issues. It's very much worth investing in a high-quality alfalfa-based show rabbit pellet with an appropriate protein and fiber content for your breed. Avoid most pet store brands. It's also worth finding a good quality timothy or orchard grass hay for added fiber. Avoid the temptation to feed treats/greens - while it is super tempting, rabbits do definitely benefit from consistency in their pellet/hay based diet!
Rabbits are also very prone to heatstroke. Make sure your pet rabbit is housed indoors, not in direct sunlight, and make sure they keep cool in the summer.
Q: Do rabbits spray?
A: Some do and some don't. Typically does don't spray, but bucks sometimes do. In my experience, it seems to be fairly hereditary, and linked to personality. Often it's the more hyperactive bucks that spray. Some of my Holland bucks spray occasionally, but not constantly and definitely not all of them. It helps when I house them further away from does. Neutering may or may not help, but can also lead to health issues down the road.
Q: Do rabbits smell?
A: Not if they are housed correctly and cleaned frequently. Your rabbit should never have an unpleasant odor, and neither should its cage. Use a good quality wire floored cage and put litter in the tray underneath. If you spot-clean every couple of days and dump/rinse the tray once or twice per week, you should experience minimal to no odor.
Q: How often should I handle my rabbit?
A: The more you handle your rabbit, the friendlier and more bonded to you it will become. It's that simple! I handle all of my rabbits several times per day from birth, which makes them super friendly. If I left them to their own devices for an extended period of time, they would lose their attachment to me and become a lot less friendly.
While it's important to make sure your rabbit spends plenty of time interacting with you, it's equally important to make sure that the rabbit also gets some time to itself. Just like humans, rabbits have a social battery and need a certain amount of time to kick back and relax. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk, so that is when I spend the most time interacting with mine.
Q: Is it okay if I house my rabbit outside or let them play outside?
A: Per my Sales Policy, I require that pet rabbits I sell not be housed outside. This is for a number of reasons. Firstly, the risk of predators. Cats, raccoons, rats, and birds of prey would make a quick meal out of a pet rabbit. Secondly, the rabbit is likely end up with both internal and external parasites. Thirdly, there are a number of diseases, such as myxomatosis and RHD, that are much more easily caught if the rabbit is outdoors. Lastly, most domesticated rabbits are not equipped to deal with harsh conditions. Because they are so heat sensitive, it would be easy to lose them to heatstroke on a hot day.
Q: Should I feed my rabbit greens?
A: I personally advise against it. Rabbits benefit from consistency in the diet, and the high sugar/water content in fruits/veg make them a more risky option given how sensitive their digestion is. Rather that feeding greens, feed your rabbit a high quality show rabbit pellet and good quality orchard grass hay or timothy hay.
Q: What are some treats I can feed my rabbit?
A: In general, something low sugar and not artificial or bought from a pet store. I recommend Black Oil Sunflower Seeds as a healthy treat. BOSS can be used as a supplement to improve your rabbit's fur and give it a glossy shine. I recommend giving about 5 or 6 seeds a day, either on top of their regular food or as a treat. You can buy BOSS at most feed stores.
Another great option for a healthy treat is plain shredded wheat cereal. Shredded wheat is awesome for a rabbit's gut health, appetite, and weight gain (if needed). I always give it to my rabbits at shows to encourage them to eat. My rabbits go nuts for it!
A: I breed for the improvement of the Holland Lop breed. This means I breed in accordance with the Holland Lop breed standard outlined in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. The SOP describes in great detail what the ideal Holland Lop should look like in terms of correct, healthy conformation and defining breed characteristics. I also breed for strong, healthy animals. Health, vigor, and condition are all heritable characteristics, so I select for these traits in my animals. I additionally breed for a correct Holland Lop temperament, which should be calm, friendly, affectionate, and easy to handle.
Q: Does your pricing vary depending on color and sex?
A: No. Color and sex are not the way anyone should be selecting their new pet. It's okay to have a preference, but by selecting for superficial characteristics, it's very easy to neglect the important ones such as temperament and energy level. I do not wish for any of my buyers to select their new rabbit based on something as unimportant as what color they are. If color is a deal-breaker, that's fine, but be prepared to wait a bit longer for the right rabbit to come along with both the temperament and the color you desire.
Q: Do rabbits like to be held?
A: It depends on the rabbit, as temperament is largely hereditary. I will personally only breed rabbits with what I consider to be good temperaments: calm, friendly, and easy to handle. However, the most important factor is how often and how correctly a rabbit is handled. It's important to learn how to handle your rabbit correctly so that it doesn't learn bad behaviors. If you aren't sure how to handle your rabbit, go on YouTube or ideally have an experienced breeder help you.
Another thing to consider is that rabbits that are allowed to "free-roam" tend to be somewhat feral in temperament. On the other hand, rabbits that are housed in appropriately sized cages and given plenty of handling tend to actively seek attention.
Q: Why haven't I received an email back?
A: I do have a fairly high volume of inquiries. This means I am fortunate enough to be able to be very selective on where each of my rabbits goes. I do my best to match up each person with the right rabbit for what they are looking for in terms of temperament and compatibility, so if I don't have what you are looking for, I might not always have the time to respond. If I haven't responded within a week, feel free to shoot me another email. I try to respond to as many inquiries as I can, but please keep in mind that my rabbits are a hobby, not a job.
Q: Are bucks or does better pets?
A: It completely depends on the rabbit in question. Each rabbit is an individual, with their own personality and quirks. I have found in my breeding program that the temperament is not really dependent on the sex of the rabbit. That said, it's important to keep in mind that some bucks do spray.
Q: Should my rabbit be free-roam or in a cage?
A: It depends what you are looking for in a rabbit. I advise housing in an appropriately sized cage for the rabbit's safety, and allowing supervised time in a playpen when possible. I do advise against free roaming - because rabbits lack the impulse control of a dog or cat, they can injure themselves more easily or chew/ingest hazardous material. It can make them more skittish and averse to handling.
Q: Should I get my rabbit a companion?
A: Rabbits are naturally territorial creatures, so I advise against it. They are not social animals like horses, dogs, or guinea pigs, whose wild ancestors lived in social groups. Interestingly, current academic research is showing that while rabbits do benefit from being able to see and smell other rabbits nearby, they display higher blood cortisol levels when cohabitated with other rabbits.
Q: Should I spay/neuter my rabbit?
A: I recommend against spaying/neutering rabbits unless there is a medical necessity. I have not personally observed any real change or improvement in health or temperament in my past spayed/neutered rabbits compared to when they were intact. Rabbits do also have a very high mortality rate both during and post-op as they are very sensitive to anesthesia. As such, I am on the more cautious side with surgeries with my rabbits. With that being said, spaying/neutering is a choice best made by the owner and their vet.
Q: Are there any vaccinations my rabbit should get?
A: I recommend that all rabbits in the US be vaccinated for RHDV2 annually. This virus is fatal to rabbits and is very infectious. Contact your vet in order to procure more information about the vaccination and the virus.
Q: What is RHDV2?
A: Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease type 2 is a really nasty virus that only affects rabbits, hares, and pikas. It was first discovered in China in 1984, made its way to Europe about 10 years ago, and then spread to the United States in 2020.
RHD is almost always fatal, and is highly infectious. Typically rabbits die within a couple of days of infection. RHD can survive for up to 4 months in the environment and can endure extremely hot and cold temperatures. It can be spread by other rabbits, flies, shoes, equipment, rodents, dogs, cats, bird droppings, clothes, etc..
Thankfully, as of late 2021, there is a US manufactured RHD vaccination that is starting to become available to vets across the country. Each state has to individually approve the vaccine before it can be used there. Talk to your vet for more information.
Q: Can I breed my pet rabbit?
A: No. When you buy a pet rabbit, it is being sold with the requirement that it is going to be used solely for the purpose of being a pet. Pets are sold at a reduced price compared to show quality animals. This is because despite the fact that they are cute and sweet, they are not of high enough quality to improve the next generation of their breed.
If you are seriously interested in ethically raising quality rabbits, join ARBA and your breed's national club, find a mentor, learn the breed standard, and invest in high quality show or brood rabbits that are excellent examples of their breed. The world does not need more badly bred animals, so if you really want to breed, go about it the responsible way!
Q: Is it true that intact rabbits are aggressive?
A: Aggression is typically caused by one of two things: bad genetics or infrequent/incorrect handling. It is not linked to whether or not the rabbit is fixed. If the rabbit has genetic aggression, then no amount of handling will rectify it.
All of my rabbits are intact, and there is not a single rabbit in my herd with aggression issues. I have owned plenty of spayed and neutered rabbits in the past though, and did not see any positive impact on their temperament.
Q: How often should I take my rabbit to the vet?
A: I recommend bringing your rabbit to the vet annually for their RHDV2 vaccination. Beyond that, I generally only bring my rabbits to the vet if I feel there's something wrong. It's a fine balance to make sure your rabbit is receiving appropriate medical attention, but also not changing their environment frequently/unnecessarily given how sensitive they are to change. Regardless, I suggest doing your research on common diseases so that you are aware of the symptoms and can make an informed decision.
Q: Which breeds make the best pets? Are there differences in personalities between different breeds?
A: Yes, there is quite a bit of difference. In general, the best options for pets are the more laidback breeds. Polish, Himalayans, Mini Rex, Holland Lops, and French Lops are some great options for pet owners, as they tend to be social and easy to handle. For most pet homes, I advise against meat breeds or the more high-strung full-arch breeds. That said, these are generalizations, and each rabbit is different. I always recommend that new rabbit owners visit ARBA sanctioned shows or other rabbit events to meet the breeds in person and decide if they are a good fit before purchasing one.
Q: What are the most common health concerns in rabbits?
A: Digestive issues and heat related issues. The risk of both can be significantly reduced with proper care. Feeding a fairly bland and extremely consistent diet helps reduce the risk of gastrointestinal issues. It's very much worth investing in a high-quality alfalfa-based show rabbit pellet with an appropriate protein and fiber content for your breed. Avoid most pet store brands. It's also worth finding a good quality timothy or orchard grass hay for added fiber. Avoid the temptation to feed treats/greens - while it is super tempting, rabbits do definitely benefit from consistency in their pellet/hay based diet!
Rabbits are also very prone to heatstroke. Make sure your pet rabbit is housed indoors, not in direct sunlight, and make sure they keep cool in the summer.
Q: Do rabbits spray?
A: Some do and some don't. Typically does don't spray, but bucks sometimes do. In my experience, it seems to be fairly hereditary, and linked to personality. Often it's the more hyperactive bucks that spray. Some of my Holland bucks spray occasionally, but not constantly and definitely not all of them. It helps when I house them further away from does. Neutering may or may not help, but can also lead to health issues down the road.
Q: Do rabbits smell?
A: Not if they are housed correctly and cleaned frequently. Your rabbit should never have an unpleasant odor, and neither should its cage. Use a good quality wire floored cage and put litter in the tray underneath. If you spot-clean every couple of days and dump/rinse the tray once or twice per week, you should experience minimal to no odor.
Q: How often should I handle my rabbit?
A: The more you handle your rabbit, the friendlier and more bonded to you it will become. It's that simple! I handle all of my rabbits several times per day from birth, which makes them super friendly. If I left them to their own devices for an extended period of time, they would lose their attachment to me and become a lot less friendly.
While it's important to make sure your rabbit spends plenty of time interacting with you, it's equally important to make sure that the rabbit also gets some time to itself. Just like humans, rabbits have a social battery and need a certain amount of time to kick back and relax. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk, so that is when I spend the most time interacting with mine.
Q: Is it okay if I house my rabbit outside or let them play outside?
A: Per my Sales Policy, I require that pet rabbits I sell not be housed outside. This is for a number of reasons. Firstly, the risk of predators. Cats, raccoons, rats, and birds of prey would make a quick meal out of a pet rabbit. Secondly, the rabbit is likely end up with both internal and external parasites. Thirdly, there are a number of diseases, such as myxomatosis and RHD, that are much more easily caught if the rabbit is outdoors. Lastly, most domesticated rabbits are not equipped to deal with harsh conditions. Because they are so heat sensitive, it would be easy to lose them to heatstroke on a hot day.
Q: Should I feed my rabbit greens?
A: I personally advise against it. Rabbits benefit from consistency in the diet, and the high sugar/water content in fruits/veg make them a more risky option given how sensitive their digestion is. Rather that feeding greens, feed your rabbit a high quality show rabbit pellet and good quality orchard grass hay or timothy hay.
Q: What are some treats I can feed my rabbit?
A: In general, something low sugar and not artificial or bought from a pet store. I recommend Black Oil Sunflower Seeds as a healthy treat. BOSS can be used as a supplement to improve your rabbit's fur and give it a glossy shine. I recommend giving about 5 or 6 seeds a day, either on top of their regular food or as a treat. You can buy BOSS at most feed stores.
Another great option for a healthy treat is plain shredded wheat cereal. Shredded wheat is awesome for a rabbit's gut health, appetite, and weight gain (if needed). I always give it to my rabbits at shows to encourage them to eat. My rabbits go nuts for it!