Q: What do you breed for in your program?
A: I breed for the improvement of the Holland Lop breed. This means I breed in accordance with the Holland Lop breed standard outlined in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. The SOP describes in great detail what the ideal Holland Lop should look like in terms of correct, healthy conformation and defining breed characteristics. I also breed for strong, healthy animals. Health, vigor, and condition are all heritable characteristics, so I select for these traits in my animals. I additionally breed for a correct Holland Lop temperament, which should be calm, friendly, affectionate, and easy to handle.
Q: Can we come to your rabbitry to meet/pick up our rabbit?
A: Unfortunately not. As much as I would love to feel safe enough to let a stranger onto my property, I have to prioritize my personal safety and that of my rabbits. I frequently have pregnant or nursing does, and I would hate to stress them and potentially risk the lives of their babies.
Something else to consider is the biosecurity of my rabbitry. There are several very nasty viruses, such as myxomatosis and RHDV2, that could potentially kill my whole herd. Better safe than sorry!
Q: Does your pricing vary depending on color and sex?
A: No. Color and sex are not the way anyone should be selecting their new pet. It's okay to have a preference, but by selecting for superficial characteristics, it's very easy to neglect the important ones such as temperament and energy level. I do not wish for any of my buyers to select their new rabbit based on something as unimportant as what color they are. If color is a deal-breaker, that's fine, but be prepared to wait a bit longer for the right rabbit to come along with both the temperament and the color you desire.
Q: Do rabbits like to be held?
A: It depends on the rabbit, as temperament is largely hereditary. I will personally only breed rabbits with what I consider to be good temperaments: calm, friendly, and easy to handle. However, the most important factor is how often and how correctly a rabbit is handled. It's important to learn how to handle your rabbit correctly so that it doesn't learn bad behaviors. If you aren't sure how to handle your rabbit, go on YouTube or ideally have an experienced breeder help you.
Another thing to consider is that rabbits that are allowed to "free-roam" tend to be somewhat feral in temperament. On the other hand, rabbits that are housed in appropriately sized cages and given plenty of handling tend to actively seek attention.
Q: Why haven't I received an email back?
A: I do have a fairly high volume of inquiries. This means I am fortunate enough to be able to be very selective on where each of my rabbits goes. I do my best to match up each person with the right rabbit for what they are looking for in terms of temperament and compatibility, so if I don't have what you are looking for, I might not always have the time to respond. If I haven't responded within a week, feel free to shoot me another email. I try to respond to as many inquiries as I can, but please keep in mind that my rabbits are a hobby, not a job.
Q: Are bucks or does better pets?
A: It completely depends on the rabbit in question. Each rabbit is an individual, with their own personality and quirks. I have found in my breeding program that the temperament is not really dependent on the sex of the rabbit. That said, it's important to keep in mind that some bucks do spray.
Q: Should my rabbit be free-roam or in a cage?
A: It depends what you are looking for in a rabbit. Rabbits that are allowed to free-range tend to become somewhat feral in temperament and difficult to handle. This typically results in either fearfulness or aggression. If it's important to you that your rabbit is friendly, calm, and easy to handle, you will need to house it in a cage.
Contrary to what one might think, cages are not remotely cruel. Most rabbits are actually significantly calmer and less stressed in cage. A free-range habitat closely mimics the wild, so the rabbit feels it has to be "on alert" 24/7 and ready to escape a predator at any given moment. Your rabbit will be much safer and happier in a cage. Most breeds should be housed in a cage of no more than 24x36 inch dimensions.
Q: Should I get my rabbit a companion?
A: Rabbits are naturally territorial creatures. They are not social animals like horses, dogs, or guinea pigs, whose wild ancestors lived in social groups. While domestic rabbits have the aggression toward humans bred out of them, they still retain their territorial nature toward other rabbits and will bully and attack other rabbits in their territory. As such, they are far happier and less stressed without a companion.
Q: Should I spay/neuter my rabbit?
A: I recommend against spaying/neutering rabbits unless there is a medical necessity. Rabbits are incredibly sensitive to anesthesia, and even the simplest surgeries kill rabbits on a semi-regular basis. A lot of rescue organizations spread a lot of pro-spaying and neutering propaganda on the internet as they wish to decrease the number of irresponsibly bred litters. However, if your rabbit is being housed by itself, there is really no reason to spay/neuter.
A lot of rabbit rescues like to scare pet owners by claiming that 80% of intact does die of uterine cancer. This statistic was cherry-picked from a very flawed study from the 1980s, and does not have any legitimate scientific backing.
Q: Are there any vaccinations my rabbit should get?
A: I recommend that all rabbits in the US be vaccinated for RHDV2 annually. This virus is fatal to rabbits and is very infectious. Contact your vet in order to procure more information about the vaccination and the virus.
Q: What is RHDV2?
A: Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease type 2 is a really nasty virus that only affects rabbits, hares, and pikas. It was first discovered in China in 1984, made its way to Europe about 10 years ago, and then spread to the United States in 2020.
RHD is almost always fatal, and is highly infectious. Typically rabbits die within a couple of days of infection. RHD can survive for up to 4 months in the environment and can endure extremely hot and cold temperatures. It can be spread by other rabbits, flies, shoes, equipment, rodents, dogs, cats, bird droppings, clothes, etc..
Thankfully, as of late 2021, there is a US manufactured RHD vaccination that is starting to become available to vets across the country. Each state has to individually approve the vaccine before it can be used there. Talk to your vet for more information.
Q: Can I breed my pet rabbit?
A: No. When you buy a pet rabbit, it is being sold with the requirement that it is going to be used solely for the purpose of being a pet. Pets are sold at a reduced price compared to show quality animals. This is because despite the fact that they are cute and sweet, they are not of high enough quality to improve the next generation of their breed.
If you are seriously interested in ethically raising quality rabbits, join ARBA and your breed's national club, find a mentor, learn the breed standard, and invest in high quality show or brood rabbits that are excellent examples of their breed. The world does not need more badly bred animals, so if you really want to breed, go about it the responsible way!
Q: Is it true that intact rabbits are aggressive?
A: Aggression is typically caused by one of two things: bad genetics or infrequent/incorrect handling. It is not linked to whether or not the rabbit is fixed. If the rabbit has genetic aggression, then no amount of handling will rectify it.
All of my rabbits are intact, and there is not a single rabbit in my herd with aggression issues. I have owned plenty of spayed and neutered rabbits in the past though, and did not see any positive impact on their temperament.
Q: How often should I take my rabbit to the vet?
A: In general, only when absolutely necessary. Rabbits are naturally very sensitive creatures, and react negatively to stress. This can often make illnesses worse than if the rabbit had stayed home. Instead, it's important to do your homework on rabbit diseases and understand the common symptoms. Find a reputable, experienced breeder, ideally whomever you purchased your rabbit from, and go to them for advice. Most health concerns can be treated more effectively at home without putting the rabbit through the stress of moving while already in compromised health.
That said, if you live in a state where the vaccine is available, I highly recommend vaccinating your rabbit for the RHDV2 virus annually. This will require a vet visit.
Q: Which breeds make the best pets? Are there differences in personalities between different breeds?
A: Yes, there is quite a bit of difference. In general, the best options for pets are the more laidback breeds. Polish, Himalayans, Mini Rex, Dutch, Holland Lops, and French Lops are some great options for pet owners, as they tend to be social and easy to handle. The majority of pet homes are not equipped to manage the high strung nature of full-arch breeds such as Checkered Giants and Britannia Petites. Breeds popularly used for meat consumption also tend to be more averse to handling, especially when compared to breeds popularly used as pets. That said, these are generalizations, and each rabbit is different. I always recommend that new rabbit owners visit ARBA sanctioned shows or other rabbit events to meet the breeds in person and decide if they are a good fit before purchasing one.
Q: Is it true that mixed breed rabbits are healthier?
A: No, this is a myth perpetuated by the rescue community. A responsible purebred breeder selects for the genetically best representations of their breed. This means that inferior animals with weaker genetics and poorer health do not get to reproduce. Over time, this creates a line of animals with superior genetic health and vigor. On the other hand, rescue animals are not responsibly bred. They were bred by irresponsible backyard breeders who did not care about their animals' health. Because a responsible breeder is selective with their breeding stock, not only is the prevalence of genetic disease much lower, but any issues are much more predictable given that certain issues are known to occur or not occur in the breed. Meanwhile, the irresponsibly bred animals in rescues are wildly unpredictable. By sheer luck, you might end up with a genetically healthy and sound animal, but the odds of that are fairly low.
Q: What are the most common health concerns in rabbits?
A: Digestive issues and heat related issues. The risk of both can be significantly reduced with proper care. Digestive issues are almost always caused by an improper diet. The most common culprit is feeding greens. It's important to feed a good quality show rabbit pellet, not the stuff from pet stores. A good quality hay is also important for gut health.
Rabbits are also very prone to heatstroke. Make sure your pet rabbit is housed indoors, not in direct sunlight, and make sure they keep cool in the summer.
Q: Do rabbits spray?
A: Some do and some don't. Typically does don't spray, but bucks sometimes do. In my experience, it seems to be fairly hereditary, and linked to personality. Often it's the more hyperactive bucks that spray. Some of my Holland bucks spray occasionally, but not constantly and definitely not all of them. It helps when I house them further away from does. Neutering may or may not help, but can also lead to health issues down the road.
Q: Do rabbits smell?
A: Not if they are housed correctly and cleaned frequently. Your rabbit should never have an unpleasant odor, and neither should its cage. Use a good quality wire floored cage and put litter in the tray underneath. If you spot-clean every couple of days and dump/rinse the tray once or twice per week, you should experience minimal to no odor.
Q: How often should I handle my rabbit?
A: The more you handle your rabbit, the friendlier and more bonded to you it will become. It's that simple! I handle all of my rabbits several times per day from birth, which makes them super friendly. If I left them to their own devices for an extended period of time, they would lose their attachment to me and become a lot less friendly.
While it's important to make sure your rabbit spends plenty of time interacting with you, it's equally important to make sure that the rabbit also gets some time to itself. Just like humans, rabbits have a social battery and need a certain amount of time to kick back and relax. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk, so that is when I spend the most time interacting with mine.
Q: Is it true that Holland Lops are unhealthy because of their head shape?
A: Not really. Holland Lops have short muzzles, but this in itself does not result in health concerns. While on the outside they look similar to brachycephalic dogs, if you look at their actual structure, it is quite different. The reason why some brachy dogs can have health issues is that the nares are sometimes too closed off, which causes respiratory issues. Some brachy breeds also have underbites. Holland Lops do not have these concerns, and, like every other breed of rabbit, are disqualified in shows for any dental problems. I have had Holland Lops for 15+ years and have never owned, seen, or heard of a single one with respiratory issues linked to their head structure.
Holland Lops are slightly more prone to malocclusion (twisted teeth) than some other breeds, but it is still rare in good quality lines. Malocclusion is more common in badly bred/mixed breed rabbits because breeding two rabbits with different head shapes alters the jaw structure and puts the teeth out of alignment. Like with any breed, just make sure to check the teeth of any rabbit before purchase.
Q: Is it okay if I house my rabbit outside or let them play outside?
A: Per my Sales Policy, I require that pet rabbits I sell not be housed outside. This is for a number of reasons. Firstly, the risk of predators. Cats, raccoons, rats, and birds of prey would make a quick meal out of a pet rabbit. Secondly, the rabbit is pretty much guaranteed to end up with both internal and external parasites. Thirdly, there are a number of diseases, such as myxomatosis and RHD, that are much more easily caught if the rabbit is outdoors. Lastly, most domesticated rabbits are not equipped to deal with harsh conditions. Because they are so heat sensitive, it would be easy to lose them to heatstroke on a hot day.
Q: Should I feed my rabbit greens?
A: No. The trouble is that given the high water content, they put the rabbit at high risk of bloat and gastrointestinal stasis, which are typically fatal. This is why rabbits in the rescue community are constantly having GI issues and winding up with $1,000+ vet bills. With digestive issues, prevention is the best cure. Rather that feeding greens, feed your rabbit a high quality show rabbit pellet and good quality orchard grass hay or timothy hay, and additional supplements if needed.
Q: What are some treats I can feed my rabbit?
A: In general, something low sugar and not artificial or bought from a pet store. I recommend Black Oil Sunflower Seeds as a healthy treat. BOSS can be used as a supplement to improve your rabbit's fur and give it a glossy shine. I recommend giving about 5 or 6 seeds a day, either on top of their regular food or as a treat. You can buy BOSS at most feed stores.
Another great option for a healthy treat is plain shredded wheat cereal. Shredded wheat is awesome for a rabbit's gut health, appetite, and weight gain (if needed). I always give it to my rabbits at shows to encourage them to eat. My rabbits go nuts for it!
A: I breed for the improvement of the Holland Lop breed. This means I breed in accordance with the Holland Lop breed standard outlined in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. The SOP describes in great detail what the ideal Holland Lop should look like in terms of correct, healthy conformation and defining breed characteristics. I also breed for strong, healthy animals. Health, vigor, and condition are all heritable characteristics, so I select for these traits in my animals. I additionally breed for a correct Holland Lop temperament, which should be calm, friendly, affectionate, and easy to handle.
Q: Can we come to your rabbitry to meet/pick up our rabbit?
A: Unfortunately not. As much as I would love to feel safe enough to let a stranger onto my property, I have to prioritize my personal safety and that of my rabbits. I frequently have pregnant or nursing does, and I would hate to stress them and potentially risk the lives of their babies.
Something else to consider is the biosecurity of my rabbitry. There are several very nasty viruses, such as myxomatosis and RHDV2, that could potentially kill my whole herd. Better safe than sorry!
Q: Does your pricing vary depending on color and sex?
A: No. Color and sex are not the way anyone should be selecting their new pet. It's okay to have a preference, but by selecting for superficial characteristics, it's very easy to neglect the important ones such as temperament and energy level. I do not wish for any of my buyers to select their new rabbit based on something as unimportant as what color they are. If color is a deal-breaker, that's fine, but be prepared to wait a bit longer for the right rabbit to come along with both the temperament and the color you desire.
Q: Do rabbits like to be held?
A: It depends on the rabbit, as temperament is largely hereditary. I will personally only breed rabbits with what I consider to be good temperaments: calm, friendly, and easy to handle. However, the most important factor is how often and how correctly a rabbit is handled. It's important to learn how to handle your rabbit correctly so that it doesn't learn bad behaviors. If you aren't sure how to handle your rabbit, go on YouTube or ideally have an experienced breeder help you.
Another thing to consider is that rabbits that are allowed to "free-roam" tend to be somewhat feral in temperament. On the other hand, rabbits that are housed in appropriately sized cages and given plenty of handling tend to actively seek attention.
Q: Why haven't I received an email back?
A: I do have a fairly high volume of inquiries. This means I am fortunate enough to be able to be very selective on where each of my rabbits goes. I do my best to match up each person with the right rabbit for what they are looking for in terms of temperament and compatibility, so if I don't have what you are looking for, I might not always have the time to respond. If I haven't responded within a week, feel free to shoot me another email. I try to respond to as many inquiries as I can, but please keep in mind that my rabbits are a hobby, not a job.
Q: Are bucks or does better pets?
A: It completely depends on the rabbit in question. Each rabbit is an individual, with their own personality and quirks. I have found in my breeding program that the temperament is not really dependent on the sex of the rabbit. That said, it's important to keep in mind that some bucks do spray.
Q: Should my rabbit be free-roam or in a cage?
A: It depends what you are looking for in a rabbit. Rabbits that are allowed to free-range tend to become somewhat feral in temperament and difficult to handle. This typically results in either fearfulness or aggression. If it's important to you that your rabbit is friendly, calm, and easy to handle, you will need to house it in a cage.
Contrary to what one might think, cages are not remotely cruel. Most rabbits are actually significantly calmer and less stressed in cage. A free-range habitat closely mimics the wild, so the rabbit feels it has to be "on alert" 24/7 and ready to escape a predator at any given moment. Your rabbit will be much safer and happier in a cage. Most breeds should be housed in a cage of no more than 24x36 inch dimensions.
Q: Should I get my rabbit a companion?
A: Rabbits are naturally territorial creatures. They are not social animals like horses, dogs, or guinea pigs, whose wild ancestors lived in social groups. While domestic rabbits have the aggression toward humans bred out of them, they still retain their territorial nature toward other rabbits and will bully and attack other rabbits in their territory. As such, they are far happier and less stressed without a companion.
Q: Should I spay/neuter my rabbit?
A: I recommend against spaying/neutering rabbits unless there is a medical necessity. Rabbits are incredibly sensitive to anesthesia, and even the simplest surgeries kill rabbits on a semi-regular basis. A lot of rescue organizations spread a lot of pro-spaying and neutering propaganda on the internet as they wish to decrease the number of irresponsibly bred litters. However, if your rabbit is being housed by itself, there is really no reason to spay/neuter.
A lot of rabbit rescues like to scare pet owners by claiming that 80% of intact does die of uterine cancer. This statistic was cherry-picked from a very flawed study from the 1980s, and does not have any legitimate scientific backing.
Q: Are there any vaccinations my rabbit should get?
A: I recommend that all rabbits in the US be vaccinated for RHDV2 annually. This virus is fatal to rabbits and is very infectious. Contact your vet in order to procure more information about the vaccination and the virus.
Q: What is RHDV2?
A: Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease type 2 is a really nasty virus that only affects rabbits, hares, and pikas. It was first discovered in China in 1984, made its way to Europe about 10 years ago, and then spread to the United States in 2020.
RHD is almost always fatal, and is highly infectious. Typically rabbits die within a couple of days of infection. RHD can survive for up to 4 months in the environment and can endure extremely hot and cold temperatures. It can be spread by other rabbits, flies, shoes, equipment, rodents, dogs, cats, bird droppings, clothes, etc..
Thankfully, as of late 2021, there is a US manufactured RHD vaccination that is starting to become available to vets across the country. Each state has to individually approve the vaccine before it can be used there. Talk to your vet for more information.
Q: Can I breed my pet rabbit?
A: No. When you buy a pet rabbit, it is being sold with the requirement that it is going to be used solely for the purpose of being a pet. Pets are sold at a reduced price compared to show quality animals. This is because despite the fact that they are cute and sweet, they are not of high enough quality to improve the next generation of their breed.
If you are seriously interested in ethically raising quality rabbits, join ARBA and your breed's national club, find a mentor, learn the breed standard, and invest in high quality show or brood rabbits that are excellent examples of their breed. The world does not need more badly bred animals, so if you really want to breed, go about it the responsible way!
Q: Is it true that intact rabbits are aggressive?
A: Aggression is typically caused by one of two things: bad genetics or infrequent/incorrect handling. It is not linked to whether or not the rabbit is fixed. If the rabbit has genetic aggression, then no amount of handling will rectify it.
All of my rabbits are intact, and there is not a single rabbit in my herd with aggression issues. I have owned plenty of spayed and neutered rabbits in the past though, and did not see any positive impact on their temperament.
Q: How often should I take my rabbit to the vet?
A: In general, only when absolutely necessary. Rabbits are naturally very sensitive creatures, and react negatively to stress. This can often make illnesses worse than if the rabbit had stayed home. Instead, it's important to do your homework on rabbit diseases and understand the common symptoms. Find a reputable, experienced breeder, ideally whomever you purchased your rabbit from, and go to them for advice. Most health concerns can be treated more effectively at home without putting the rabbit through the stress of moving while already in compromised health.
That said, if you live in a state where the vaccine is available, I highly recommend vaccinating your rabbit for the RHDV2 virus annually. This will require a vet visit.
Q: Which breeds make the best pets? Are there differences in personalities between different breeds?
A: Yes, there is quite a bit of difference. In general, the best options for pets are the more laidback breeds. Polish, Himalayans, Mini Rex, Dutch, Holland Lops, and French Lops are some great options for pet owners, as they tend to be social and easy to handle. The majority of pet homes are not equipped to manage the high strung nature of full-arch breeds such as Checkered Giants and Britannia Petites. Breeds popularly used for meat consumption also tend to be more averse to handling, especially when compared to breeds popularly used as pets. That said, these are generalizations, and each rabbit is different. I always recommend that new rabbit owners visit ARBA sanctioned shows or other rabbit events to meet the breeds in person and decide if they are a good fit before purchasing one.
Q: Is it true that mixed breed rabbits are healthier?
A: No, this is a myth perpetuated by the rescue community. A responsible purebred breeder selects for the genetically best representations of their breed. This means that inferior animals with weaker genetics and poorer health do not get to reproduce. Over time, this creates a line of animals with superior genetic health and vigor. On the other hand, rescue animals are not responsibly bred. They were bred by irresponsible backyard breeders who did not care about their animals' health. Because a responsible breeder is selective with their breeding stock, not only is the prevalence of genetic disease much lower, but any issues are much more predictable given that certain issues are known to occur or not occur in the breed. Meanwhile, the irresponsibly bred animals in rescues are wildly unpredictable. By sheer luck, you might end up with a genetically healthy and sound animal, but the odds of that are fairly low.
Q: What are the most common health concerns in rabbits?
A: Digestive issues and heat related issues. The risk of both can be significantly reduced with proper care. Digestive issues are almost always caused by an improper diet. The most common culprit is feeding greens. It's important to feed a good quality show rabbit pellet, not the stuff from pet stores. A good quality hay is also important for gut health.
Rabbits are also very prone to heatstroke. Make sure your pet rabbit is housed indoors, not in direct sunlight, and make sure they keep cool in the summer.
Q: Do rabbits spray?
A: Some do and some don't. Typically does don't spray, but bucks sometimes do. In my experience, it seems to be fairly hereditary, and linked to personality. Often it's the more hyperactive bucks that spray. Some of my Holland bucks spray occasionally, but not constantly and definitely not all of them. It helps when I house them further away from does. Neutering may or may not help, but can also lead to health issues down the road.
Q: Do rabbits smell?
A: Not if they are housed correctly and cleaned frequently. Your rabbit should never have an unpleasant odor, and neither should its cage. Use a good quality wire floored cage and put litter in the tray underneath. If you spot-clean every couple of days and dump/rinse the tray once or twice per week, you should experience minimal to no odor.
Q: How often should I handle my rabbit?
A: The more you handle your rabbit, the friendlier and more bonded to you it will become. It's that simple! I handle all of my rabbits several times per day from birth, which makes them super friendly. If I left them to their own devices for an extended period of time, they would lose their attachment to me and become a lot less friendly.
While it's important to make sure your rabbit spends plenty of time interacting with you, it's equally important to make sure that the rabbit also gets some time to itself. Just like humans, rabbits have a social battery and need a certain amount of time to kick back and relax. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk, so that is when I spend the most time interacting with mine.
Q: Is it true that Holland Lops are unhealthy because of their head shape?
A: Not really. Holland Lops have short muzzles, but this in itself does not result in health concerns. While on the outside they look similar to brachycephalic dogs, if you look at their actual structure, it is quite different. The reason why some brachy dogs can have health issues is that the nares are sometimes too closed off, which causes respiratory issues. Some brachy breeds also have underbites. Holland Lops do not have these concerns, and, like every other breed of rabbit, are disqualified in shows for any dental problems. I have had Holland Lops for 15+ years and have never owned, seen, or heard of a single one with respiratory issues linked to their head structure.
Holland Lops are slightly more prone to malocclusion (twisted teeth) than some other breeds, but it is still rare in good quality lines. Malocclusion is more common in badly bred/mixed breed rabbits because breeding two rabbits with different head shapes alters the jaw structure and puts the teeth out of alignment. Like with any breed, just make sure to check the teeth of any rabbit before purchase.
Q: Is it okay if I house my rabbit outside or let them play outside?
A: Per my Sales Policy, I require that pet rabbits I sell not be housed outside. This is for a number of reasons. Firstly, the risk of predators. Cats, raccoons, rats, and birds of prey would make a quick meal out of a pet rabbit. Secondly, the rabbit is pretty much guaranteed to end up with both internal and external parasites. Thirdly, there are a number of diseases, such as myxomatosis and RHD, that are much more easily caught if the rabbit is outdoors. Lastly, most domesticated rabbits are not equipped to deal with harsh conditions. Because they are so heat sensitive, it would be easy to lose them to heatstroke on a hot day.
Q: Should I feed my rabbit greens?
A: No. The trouble is that given the high water content, they put the rabbit at high risk of bloat and gastrointestinal stasis, which are typically fatal. This is why rabbits in the rescue community are constantly having GI issues and winding up with $1,000+ vet bills. With digestive issues, prevention is the best cure. Rather that feeding greens, feed your rabbit a high quality show rabbit pellet and good quality orchard grass hay or timothy hay, and additional supplements if needed.
Q: What are some treats I can feed my rabbit?
A: In general, something low sugar and not artificial or bought from a pet store. I recommend Black Oil Sunflower Seeds as a healthy treat. BOSS can be used as a supplement to improve your rabbit's fur and give it a glossy shine. I recommend giving about 5 or 6 seeds a day, either on top of their regular food or as a treat. You can buy BOSS at most feed stores.
Another great option for a healthy treat is plain shredded wheat cereal. Shredded wheat is awesome for a rabbit's gut health, appetite, and weight gain (if needed). I always give it to my rabbits at shows to encourage them to eat. My rabbits go nuts for it!