So you've already picked a breed, and you've decided you want to delve into the world of rabbit showing! Awesome! Here are some things you should know in order to successfully pick your first show rabbit.
First of all, be prepared to pay a good price for quality, especially with breeds such as the Holland Lop, which can run pretty expensive. In general, a $50 Holland Lop is not going to be worth adding to your program. Be prepared to spend at least one or two hundred for a quality Holland. However, be wary of those who may overprice a mediocre rabbit to earn money off of an inexperienced buyer. This does happen and it happens a lot.
Pick a color that you like, but keep in mind that rarer colors are more expensive and are less likely to win than the established common colors as the rare ones are being worked on by less breeders. Quality rare colors are hard to find, and expensive if you do find one available. In general, it's best to start with whatever is the most competitive color in your breed. That means the color that wins most often on the show tables. With Holland Lops, that's black tort.
Join your national breed club. If you go to the ARBA website and click on their list of recognized breeds, then if you click on a picture of your breed it'll direct you to their national specialty club website. Most breeds have a guidebook which you get with membership, and sometimes a magazine subscription too. These are all a wealth of information. It will also have a list of the local and national standings of the top breeders. The people that are at the top of these lists will most likely be the people you want to buy from.
You may have to use transport to get a rabbit if it is far away and nice enough to be worth the trouble. There are plenty of transport groups on Facebook. Just make sure you do your homework and find an honest, reliable transporter with a good track record. Sometimes breeders will deliver sale rabbits to shows they are attending, or to national shows. Contact the breeder asking specifically for a quality rabbit. Don't get anything under 12 weeks old, as those are much less likely to be good quality and there is really no way of telling at that point whether it will be a good show rabbit or not. Ideally you will want something at least 5-6 months old.
If you are at a show, talk to some of the breeders that have rabbits that are doing well on the show tables. If they have any rabbits for sale then, see if you can bring the rabbit to a judge when they aren't busy and ask for the judge's opinion. Most judges would be more than happy to help and will give you an honest opinion. That way you know whether the rabbit you are considering purchasing is a good choice.
Also (and this is super important), buy from a breeder you like!! If the breeder is difficult, rude, or just isn't someone you feel comfortable getting a rabbit from, don't buy from them! Only buy a rabbit from someone you like. If the warning signs are there in the beginning, it will only get more unpleasant from there. If you get a rabbit from someone you trust and like, they are more likely to be helpful if you have questions in the future, and will probably be less tricky to deal with if something goes wrong. If you have any doubts or hesitations whatsoever, don't buy the rabbit. I feel like this is something many newcomers to the hobby overlook. It is not the norm nor is it acceptable for a breeder to treat you badly just for being new. Go find someone else who will be more welcoming and helpful.
The most important part is to not rush into buying a specific rabbit. No one single breeder has the best or most perfect rabbits for you. That will never be the case. There are hundreds of 'perfect' rabbits for you. If the rabbit sells too quickly, or is from a breeder you're not a fan of, or is too expensive, that is totally fine. There will be another one that comes up. Even if it seems like it's a once in a lifetime opportunity, it probably isn't. If you're patient, you'll have more success in the long run.
Let's talk about pricing now. Pricing varies depending on breed, color, lines, demand, how well the animal has produced, show placements, and so much more. Some breeders will charge significantly more for rare colors than for established colors. Yes, a high quality BEW Holland should absolutely be priced more than a tort of the same quality. Why? Because it's harder to achieve a BEW of that quality than it is a tort. But it shouldn't necessarily be worth more than a national winning tort. Generally with Hollands, you should be looking to spend $100 or more on a quality Holland. BUT prices vary. A lot. I bought a tort buck for $150 who once he came to me won 13 legs, was 6th at Nationals, and had tons of BOB and honorable mentions for BIS. He probably could have sold for 3 times that amount, but he wasn't, and that didn't mean he was a bad rabbit. Many people actually overlooked him BECAUSE he wasn't that expensive. Yet he was worth every penny to me, and more. I also bought a more expensive colored herd buck for $450 last year. He wasn't a show rabbit whatsoever. However, he was a color, and a fantastic producer. He sired a phenomenal BIS and RIS winning otter for me. I actually own neither of those bucks anymore because they were fantastic and outproduced themselves. The point is see past the price and look at the quality of the animal, and the quality they produce. The most expensive rabbit is NOT always the best rabbit. It can be. But it isn't always.
Many breeders, especially in this breed and especially with colors, will charge extremely high prices for their animals. It's up to you to decide how badly you want the color or line or animal in question, and whether it's worth it to you and your herd. Every breeder has the right to charge whatever they want for their animals, just as you have the right to spend however much or little you want to spend. Don't judge breeders for their prices, and don't judge buyers for how much they are able to spend.
Lastly, only buy a rabbit if you feel good about having made that purchase. If it's worth it to you, then go for it! You and only you are responsible for your herd, and it's up to you to make your own choices. I wish the best of luck to you and your herd!
First of all, be prepared to pay a good price for quality, especially with breeds such as the Holland Lop, which can run pretty expensive. In general, a $50 Holland Lop is not going to be worth adding to your program. Be prepared to spend at least one or two hundred for a quality Holland. However, be wary of those who may overprice a mediocre rabbit to earn money off of an inexperienced buyer. This does happen and it happens a lot.
Pick a color that you like, but keep in mind that rarer colors are more expensive and are less likely to win than the established common colors as the rare ones are being worked on by less breeders. Quality rare colors are hard to find, and expensive if you do find one available. In general, it's best to start with whatever is the most competitive color in your breed. That means the color that wins most often on the show tables. With Holland Lops, that's black tort.
Join your national breed club. If you go to the ARBA website and click on their list of recognized breeds, then if you click on a picture of your breed it'll direct you to their national specialty club website. Most breeds have a guidebook which you get with membership, and sometimes a magazine subscription too. These are all a wealth of information. It will also have a list of the local and national standings of the top breeders. The people that are at the top of these lists will most likely be the people you want to buy from.
You may have to use transport to get a rabbit if it is far away and nice enough to be worth the trouble. There are plenty of transport groups on Facebook. Just make sure you do your homework and find an honest, reliable transporter with a good track record. Sometimes breeders will deliver sale rabbits to shows they are attending, or to national shows. Contact the breeder asking specifically for a quality rabbit. Don't get anything under 12 weeks old, as those are much less likely to be good quality and there is really no way of telling at that point whether it will be a good show rabbit or not. Ideally you will want something at least 5-6 months old.
If you are at a show, talk to some of the breeders that have rabbits that are doing well on the show tables. If they have any rabbits for sale then, see if you can bring the rabbit to a judge when they aren't busy and ask for the judge's opinion. Most judges would be more than happy to help and will give you an honest opinion. That way you know whether the rabbit you are considering purchasing is a good choice.
Also (and this is super important), buy from a breeder you like!! If the breeder is difficult, rude, or just isn't someone you feel comfortable getting a rabbit from, don't buy from them! Only buy a rabbit from someone you like. If the warning signs are there in the beginning, it will only get more unpleasant from there. If you get a rabbit from someone you trust and like, they are more likely to be helpful if you have questions in the future, and will probably be less tricky to deal with if something goes wrong. If you have any doubts or hesitations whatsoever, don't buy the rabbit. I feel like this is something many newcomers to the hobby overlook. It is not the norm nor is it acceptable for a breeder to treat you badly just for being new. Go find someone else who will be more welcoming and helpful.
The most important part is to not rush into buying a specific rabbit. No one single breeder has the best or most perfect rabbits for you. That will never be the case. There are hundreds of 'perfect' rabbits for you. If the rabbit sells too quickly, or is from a breeder you're not a fan of, or is too expensive, that is totally fine. There will be another one that comes up. Even if it seems like it's a once in a lifetime opportunity, it probably isn't. If you're patient, you'll have more success in the long run.
Let's talk about pricing now. Pricing varies depending on breed, color, lines, demand, how well the animal has produced, show placements, and so much more. Some breeders will charge significantly more for rare colors than for established colors. Yes, a high quality BEW Holland should absolutely be priced more than a tort of the same quality. Why? Because it's harder to achieve a BEW of that quality than it is a tort. But it shouldn't necessarily be worth more than a national winning tort. Generally with Hollands, you should be looking to spend $100 or more on a quality Holland. BUT prices vary. A lot. I bought a tort buck for $150 who once he came to me won 13 legs, was 6th at Nationals, and had tons of BOB and honorable mentions for BIS. He probably could have sold for 3 times that amount, but he wasn't, and that didn't mean he was a bad rabbit. Many people actually overlooked him BECAUSE he wasn't that expensive. Yet he was worth every penny to me, and more. I also bought a more expensive colored herd buck for $450 last year. He wasn't a show rabbit whatsoever. However, he was a color, and a fantastic producer. He sired a phenomenal BIS and RIS winning otter for me. I actually own neither of those bucks anymore because they were fantastic and outproduced themselves. The point is see past the price and look at the quality of the animal, and the quality they produce. The most expensive rabbit is NOT always the best rabbit. It can be. But it isn't always.
Many breeders, especially in this breed and especially with colors, will charge extremely high prices for their animals. It's up to you to decide how badly you want the color or line or animal in question, and whether it's worth it to you and your herd. Every breeder has the right to charge whatever they want for their animals, just as you have the right to spend however much or little you want to spend. Don't judge breeders for their prices, and don't judge buyers for how much they are able to spend.
Lastly, only buy a rabbit if you feel good about having made that purchase. If it's worth it to you, then go for it! You and only you are responsible for your herd, and it's up to you to make your own choices. I wish the best of luck to you and your herd!