Breeding for a reason
So here's the tea on ?????????
First and foremost, and I cannot stress this enough, my rabbits are not money to me - they are my pets and I love each and every one of them. It is my job as their breeder to do what I think is in their best interests. It is not my job to sell them for a quick buck (no pun intended). I interact with these wonderful animals every day from the minute they are born. I guess you could say I'm attached. I will not sell to anyone who I don't think would give my rabbits the amazing lives they deserve. As such, I seek to educate my pet owners as best as I possibly can so that the pet quality rabbits I sell can have the best possible futures.
Like any good breeder, I do not breed to produce pets, nor do I breed to sell. Rabbits are a labor of love, and I lose money every day with pellets, hay, supplements, shavings, cages, cleaning supplies, show entries, and various other supplies and expenses. If I bred to produce pets and charged outrageous prices for them, I'm sure I'd be in a great deal of profit. However, I personally believe it's unethical to sell pets for profit, especially when you start seeing pet quality animals sold for hundreds of dollars apiece, oftentimes taking deposits before the litter is old enough to even be assessed for quality!! You could get a high quality show animal for the kind of money that many scammers love to charge unsuspecting new owners for poor quality animals. For reference, my foundation herd bucks (some of the highest quality rabbits in my herd) cost me $150-$350 each. That's just not the kind of money people should be charging for a pet quality rabbit.
I don't charge more or less for any particular age, color, or gender. My price for pets is the same for each and every animal. This is because I believe pets should be selected based on temperament and compatibility with the new owner rather than on looks alone. It's okay to have a specific color preference, but please understand that I will not match you with a rabbit solely based on color, etc.. Trust me, you will be far happier with a rabbit that is a good match for you but isn't your particular color preference than one of your favorite color that isn't compatible. Incompatible pets and pet owners are a recipe for disaster, and an accident waiting to happen. In the best interests of the buyer and the rabbit, I do my best to match up prospective buyers with the best rabbits for their needs.
A lot of breeders online advertise 'rare colors' as a selling point for their pet rabbits. Again, I think suckering people into buying something based on 'rare color' is highly unethical. Especially when most of the 'rare colors' they advertise aren't even rare! If I had a penny for every poor quality Vienna Mark (VM) or Blue-Eyed White (BEW) I've seen, I'd be a billionaire. Sure, there are some colors that are slightly more or less common than others, but in the end, does that really matter? Rarity of color doesn't influence the temperament of the rabbit, so why care how rare the color of your rabbit is? It also says something about the breeder if their major selling point is an unusual color, not breeding for good structure, health, and temperament...
I do not allow deposits on rabbits before I have evaluated the kits and decided which I will be keeping to grow out as potential show or brood rabbits for myself or to share with other breeders, and which will be going as pets. Usually I evaluate my kits at around 6 weeks old, and post them on my site at 7 weeks to give interested buyers a week of time to inquire and arrange a meeting time with me for once the rabbit is 8 weeks old. I am perfectly happy for the buyer to wait until they've met the rabbit in person before they make any decisions. So far I have never had a prospective buyer meet the rabbit and change their mind (my rabbits speak for themselves!), but I still want the buyer to have that option open, which is again why I charge a relatively low price for my pet quality Hollands compared to what you'll see online elsewhere. I would rather my rabbits stay with me than go to a home out of obligation to someone who doesn't want them.
I don't have 'hours of operation'. This is not a business to me, so I don't operate it like one. Rabbits are a hobby and a passion to me, not a money-making enterprise. Like most reputable breeders, I operate a closed rabbitry, meaning I do not allow visitors into my rabbitry. I have many reasons for operating a closed rabbitry, which are explained in detail in this article. I don't run a petting zoo - I operate a private rabbitry that occasionally offers quality pets or breeding animals to approved owners.
I do not allow rabbits to go to their new homes before 8 weeks old. Not only is it against California law to sell rabbits under 8 weeks old, but it is also highly unethical as a breeder. Rabbits need every minute of those 8 weeks to grow, develop, and learn proper rabbit behavior from the experts - me, and their moms. They need their time playing with their siblings, learning to be respectful from their moms, and learning from me and my family how to interact with humans and be delightful, sweet pets. Additionally, rabbits are especially sensitive to stress before the 8 week checkpoint. Letting them leave the rabbitry before 8 weeks means we are risking diarrhea, weaning enteritis, GI stasis, and even death of the baby in question.
The reality is, most good breeders don't have websites that pop up first on search engines.
You probably came across me and a small handful of others who breed show rabbits and genuinely care about the rabbits we produce. But you also probably
Let's talk websites now.
Are they proving their rabbits on the show tables? Look for titles such as Best of Breed (BOB), BOSB (Best Opposite Sex of Breed), BIS (Best in Show), and RIS (Reserve in Show).
The words 'champion bloodlines', 'grand champion pedigree', and 'show quality' mean nothing. The proof is in the pudding - if the rabbits are legit, many of the breeder's rabbits (especially the bucks) will have show wins.
Most of the older breeders who have been in the hobby for years don't have websites. It's only because I'm a teenager and took courses in website building that I have my own site in the first place. I wanted a website that clearly that could be educational for my buyers and a helpful resource throughout their rabbit's life.
As a teenager, I am active on social media and love to interact with others online, ????????
First and foremost, and I cannot stress this enough, my rabbits are not money to me - they are my pets and I love each and every one of them. It is my job as their breeder to do what I think is in their best interests. It is not my job to sell them for a quick buck (no pun intended). I interact with these wonderful animals every day from the minute they are born. I guess you could say I'm attached. I will not sell to anyone who I don't think would give my rabbits the amazing lives they deserve. As such, I seek to educate my pet owners as best as I possibly can so that the pet quality rabbits I sell can have the best possible futures.
Like any good breeder, I do not breed to produce pets, nor do I breed to sell. Rabbits are a labor of love, and I lose money every day with pellets, hay, supplements, shavings, cages, cleaning supplies, show entries, and various other supplies and expenses. If I bred to produce pets and charged outrageous prices for them, I'm sure I'd be in a great deal of profit. However, I personally believe it's unethical to sell pets for profit, especially when you start seeing pet quality animals sold for hundreds of dollars apiece, oftentimes taking deposits before the litter is old enough to even be assessed for quality!! You could get a high quality show animal for the kind of money that many scammers love to charge unsuspecting new owners for poor quality animals. For reference, my foundation herd bucks (some of the highest quality rabbits in my herd) cost me $150-$350 each. That's just not the kind of money people should be charging for a pet quality rabbit.
I don't charge more or less for any particular age, color, or gender. My price for pets is the same for each and every animal. This is because I believe pets should be selected based on temperament and compatibility with the new owner rather than on looks alone. It's okay to have a specific color preference, but please understand that I will not match you with a rabbit solely based on color, etc.. Trust me, you will be far happier with a rabbit that is a good match for you but isn't your particular color preference than one of your favorite color that isn't compatible. Incompatible pets and pet owners are a recipe for disaster, and an accident waiting to happen. In the best interests of the buyer and the rabbit, I do my best to match up prospective buyers with the best rabbits for their needs.
A lot of breeders online advertise 'rare colors' as a selling point for their pet rabbits. Again, I think suckering people into buying something based on 'rare color' is highly unethical. Especially when most of the 'rare colors' they advertise aren't even rare! If I had a penny for every poor quality Vienna Mark (VM) or Blue-Eyed White (BEW) I've seen, I'd be a billionaire. Sure, there are some colors that are slightly more or less common than others, but in the end, does that really matter? Rarity of color doesn't influence the temperament of the rabbit, so why care how rare the color of your rabbit is? It also says something about the breeder if their major selling point is an unusual color, not breeding for good structure, health, and temperament...
I do not allow deposits on rabbits before I have evaluated the kits and decided which I will be keeping to grow out as potential show or brood rabbits for myself or to share with other breeders, and which will be going as pets. Usually I evaluate my kits at around 6 weeks old, and post them on my site at 7 weeks to give interested buyers a week of time to inquire and arrange a meeting time with me for once the rabbit is 8 weeks old. I am perfectly happy for the buyer to wait until they've met the rabbit in person before they make any decisions. So far I have never had a prospective buyer meet the rabbit and change their mind (my rabbits speak for themselves!), but I still want the buyer to have that option open, which is again why I charge a relatively low price for my pet quality Hollands compared to what you'll see online elsewhere. I would rather my rabbits stay with me than go to a home out of obligation to someone who doesn't want them.
I don't have 'hours of operation'. This is not a business to me, so I don't operate it like one. Rabbits are a hobby and a passion to me, not a money-making enterprise. Like most reputable breeders, I operate a closed rabbitry, meaning I do not allow visitors into my rabbitry. I have many reasons for operating a closed rabbitry, which are explained in detail in this article. I don't run a petting zoo - I operate a private rabbitry that occasionally offers quality pets or breeding animals to approved owners.
I do not allow rabbits to go to their new homes before 8 weeks old. Not only is it against California law to sell rabbits under 8 weeks old, but it is also highly unethical as a breeder. Rabbits need every minute of those 8 weeks to grow, develop, and learn proper rabbit behavior from the experts - me, and their moms. They need their time playing with their siblings, learning to be respectful from their moms, and learning from me and my family how to interact with humans and be delightful, sweet pets. Additionally, rabbits are especially sensitive to stress before the 8 week checkpoint. Letting them leave the rabbitry before 8 weeks means we are risking diarrhea, weaning enteritis, GI stasis, and even death of the baby in question.
The reality is, most good breeders don't have websites that pop up first on search engines.
You probably came across me and a small handful of others who breed show rabbits and genuinely care about the rabbits we produce. But you also probably
Let's talk websites now.
Are they proving their rabbits on the show tables? Look for titles such as Best of Breed (BOB), BOSB (Best Opposite Sex of Breed), BIS (Best in Show), and RIS (Reserve in Show).
The words 'champion bloodlines', 'grand champion pedigree', and 'show quality' mean nothing. The proof is in the pudding - if the rabbits are legit, many of the breeder's rabbits (especially the bucks) will have show wins.
Most of the older breeders who have been in the hobby for years don't have websites. It's only because I'm a teenager and took courses in website building that I have my own site in the first place. I wanted a website that clearly that could be educational for my buyers and a helpful resource throughout their rabbit's life.
As a teenager, I am active on social media and love to interact with others online, ????????